Crate training a puppy: a week-by-week plan

Crate training a puppy takes two to four weeks if you go at the puppy's pace: a few days of making the crate the best place in the house, then gradually longer periods with the door closed, then overnight. The goal is a puppy that walks into the crate on their own and settles, not one that is shut in and left to cry. This week-by-week plan shows you exactly what to do each day, and what to do when it goes wrong.

Before you start: set the crate up right

• Size: big enough to stand, turn and lie flat, and no bigger while they are toilet training. Buy the adult size and use the divider. Our crate size guide covers measuring and breed sizes.
• Position: in the room the family spends most time in, out of direct sun and draughts. Puppies are social; a crate in the utility room feels like exile.
• Inside: a waterproof crate bed or vet bedding that can be washed, a worn T-shirt that smells of you, and a safe chew.
• Cover: a blanket over the top and three sides makes a wire crate feel like a den. Leave the front open for airflow.
• Door: tie or prop it open so it cannot swing shut and startle them during week one.

Puppies cannot hold their bladder for long. A rough rule is one hour per month of age plus one, so a 10-week-old puppy manages around three hours at most, and less when active.

Week 1: make the crate the best place in the house

No door closing this week. You are building an association, nothing else.

1. Days 1–2: scatter a few pieces of kibble just inside the door. Let the puppy find them on their own. Drop treats further inside through the day. Feed every meal in the crate with the door open.
2. Days 3–4: introduce a cue, such as "bed", as the puppy steps in. Treat the moment all four feet are inside. Repeat 10–15 times a day in short bursts.
3. Days 5–7: give a stuffed food toy or long-lasting chew only in the crate. Sit nearby while they work on it. Start closing the door for 10–30 seconds while they eat, then open it before they finish.

By the end of the week most puppies will walk in on cue and choose the crate for naps. If yours does not, repeat the week. There is no benefit in rushing.

Week 2: closing the door

Build duration in small steps and always open the door while the puppy is calm, never while they are crying, or crying becomes the thing that opens doors.

Day	Door closed for	You are
8–9	1–2 minutes	Sitting next to the crate
10–11	5–10 minutes	In the room, not looking at them
12–13	15–20 minutes	Walking in and out of the room
14	30 minutes	In another room

Every session starts with a toilet trip and a burst of play, so the puppy is tired and empty. Always give a chew or food toy when the door shuts. Do several short sessions a day rather than one long one.

Week 3: alone time and overnight

Many owners start the crate at night from day one, which is fine as long as the crate is in or next to your bedroom. A puppy that can hear and smell you will settle far faster than one downstairs alone.

• Nights: last toilet trip at bedtime, into the crate with a chew, lights off. Expect one or two night-time toilet trips for the first few weeks. Keep them boring: out, wee, straight back in, no play.
• Leaving the house: build from 10 minutes to an hour over the week. Leave calmly without a fuss and return the same way.
• Daytime maximum: once trained, a puppy under six months should not be crated for more than 2–3 hours at a stretch, with a toilet break and play either side.

Week 4 and beyond: making it stick

Keep feeding in the crate occasionally and keep the door open during the day so the puppy can use it as their own space. Move the crate downstairs if you want it there long term, one room at a time over a few nights. Once the puppy is reliably clean, remove the divider and add a proper bed. Many adult dogs happily use their crate for life; others outgrow the need, and that is fine too.

A playpen around the crate gives a toilet-trained puppy more room when you are out for longer, without giving the run of the house.

Mistakes to avoid when crate training a puppy

• Opening the door to crying. Wait for a pause, even a two-second one, then open. If the crying is frantic, you have gone too far too fast: go back a step.
• Using the crate as punishment. Never send a puppy to the crate because they have done something wrong.
• Too long, too early. Soiling in the crate sets training back weeks. Stick to the age-in-months-plus-one rule.
• Collars and harnesses in the crate. Take them off to avoid snagging on the bars.
• Making arrivals and departures a big event. Calm in, calm out.
• Ignoring the signs of real distress. Drooling, bent bars, damaged teeth or injured paws need a vet and a behaviourist, not more crate time.

Crate training a puppy FAQs

How long does it take to crate train a puppy?

Most puppies are comfortable in two to four weeks. Some take a few days, some take longer. Progress depends on consistency, not age.

Should I cover the crate at night?

Usually yes. A cover over the top and three sides reduces visual distraction and helps most puppies settle. Leave the front uncovered for airflow.

Should I ignore my puppy crying in the crate at night?

Not completely. Young puppies often cry because they need the toilet. Take them out quietly, then straight back. If they have just been and are crying for attention, wait for a gap in the crying before responding.

Where should a puppy crate go at night?

In your bedroom for the first few weeks. Once they sleep through, move it gradually to its permanent position.

Ready to set up? Shop puppy and dog crates, most with a divider panel included, and pair it with a washable crate bed. Free tracked UK delivery on every order, with 30-day returns on unused items.